This season, Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 took a softer, more thoughtful turn. Instead of bold statements and theatrical runway tricks, designers focused on mood, material and meaning. The collections were emotional, personal and in many ways a reflection of how menswear is evolving.
Here are the five standout shows and the subtle style shifts they hint at for next season.
Prada
Prada set the tone with a quiet, deeply intentional collection. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took familiar military shapes and stripped them back. The result? A wardrobe of functional pieces: structured jackets, short tailored trousers, sleeveless knits finished in soft pastels and neutrals.
Set against a soundtrack of birds and Elvis, the show felt meditative, even gentle. It was a clear sign that “quiet utility” is on the rise: workwear silhouettes, but made lighter, softer and more emotionally resonant.
Looking ahead: Expect this blend of softness and function to continue in SS27, with more technical fabrics, relaxed shapes and accessories that feel both practical and personal.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana made a strong case for everyday ease. Their “Pyjama Boys” collection transformed sleepwear into a public statement: silky PJ sets, sheer shirts, flowing trenches and crystal embellishments, all done in sorbet shades.
What could have looked overly relaxed instead felt romantic and polished. It captured the spirit of luxurious comfort that’s been trending lately and it’s not going anywhere.
Next season we’ll likely see more designers following this route: robe-inspired coats, wide-leg lounge pants and soft tailoring that blurs the line between home and street.
Simon Cracker
If any brand is leading fashion’s sustainable future, it’s Simon Cracker. This small, fiercely creative label built its entire collection from discarded fabrics and damaged stock. The results were surprisingly elegant: asymmetric blazers, hybrid pants-skirts and shirts turned into wearable patchworks.
The collection was titled “The devil in the details” and every look proved it. Nothing was overdesigned, it just felt honest, personal and smart.
Looking forward, expect more labels to follow suit, embracing upcycling not just as a concept, but as a core design tool. And with digital customization on the rise, we’re also heading toward modular clothing, pieces that can be adapted and rebuilt season after season.
Vivienne Westwood
In a quiet Milanese bar, Vivienne Westwood brought punk back, but in a surprisingly refined way. Corseted shapes, tartan layers and twisted tailoring nodded to the house’s rebellious past, but the mood was softer. Less shout, more suggestion. It felt like a call to heritage revival, not retro for the sake of it, but thoughtful updates to classics that still challenge the norm.
For SS27, this kind of “refined rebellion” could take form in softened punk staples, relaxed check patterns and deconstructed suiting that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani took us on a journey without leaving Milan. The collection featured loose linen tunics, breezy trousers, mosaic-print shirts and technical outerwear perfect for warm-weather travel.
There was an effortless, wanderer vibe, one that mixed natural textures with functional silhouettes. It was less about fashion for the runway and more about clothing for the real world.
This fits perfectly with the growing interest in “nomadic dressing”: light, breathable pieces built for movement and designed with earth-tone palettes and natural fabrics like linen and crepe.
What It All Means for Next Season
SS26’s shows told a consistent story: menswear is softening. There’s a shared sense of slowing down, dressing with care and letting clothes reflect how we feel, not just how we look.
Here’s what’s coming next:
- Soft utility: Cargo pockets and shackets, but with gentler fabrics and less structure.
- Sleepwear becomes streetwear: Robes, PJs and lounge sets reimagined for daytime.
- Craft over perfection: Upcycled, modular and emotionally rich garments.
- Heritage rebellion: Classic fabrics (like tartan and tweed) reworked in modern cuts.
- Nomadic textures: Travel-ready pieces in earthy colors, natural fibers, and lightweight silhouettes.
