Alessandro Michele has once again redefined the boundaries of high fashion by transforming a public washroom into a runway for Valentino’s Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection at Paris Fashion Week. This choice of venue has ignited discussions and underscored Michele’s intent to challenge conventional fashion norms.
Critics have raised eyebrows at the choice of a public washroom as a venue for a high-fashion show. However Michele’s selection is rich in symbolism tying directly into the collection’s themes of public and private personas and the intimate act of dressing. He describes fashion as a “great theater” of self-revelation and concealment making the washroom an epitome of private acts in a public space an apt backdrop.
In describing the set for his runway show Michele used the term “Lynchian” evoking the eerie surreal atmospheres typical of director David Lynch’s films. This suggests an intention to create a show infused with a sense of the uncanny and psychologically complex, qualities that deeply resonate with Lynch’s signature style.
Observers also noted a resemblance to “The Shining” by Stanley Kubrick referencing the film’s themes of isolation and psychological tension along with its dramatic use of space. This parallel further emphasizes the unsettling yet compelling environment Michele aimed to create, enhancing the dramatic and narrative depth of the collection.
Despite the unconventional setting the collection stays true to Valentino’s hallmarks of elegance sophistication and romantic flair. Luxurious materials like fur silk and fine wool speak to Valentino’s legacy of opulence. The dominant use of Valentino red black and earth tones enhanced by the venue’s dramatic red lighting adds to the theatricality of the event.
The collection features everything from sharply tailored suits and structured coats to softer dresses and gowns. This variety not only showcases Valentino’s versatility but also highlights Michele’s commitment to inclusivity reflecting a deep understanding of diverse body types and personal styles.
The collection prominently features transparency and layering with sheer fabrics and lace reflecting the theme of exposure versus privacy. The interplay of textures and prints adds depth mirroring the complexities of modern identities where Michele’s artistry pushes the traditional boundaries of Valentino’s aesthetics.
Michele drew inspiration from Valentino’s rich history, particularly the opulent 1980s and the elegant yet lesser-known late 1990s designs, blending them with his innovative vision. This approach demonstrates his reverence for the brand’s past while steering its narrative forward.
Alessandro Michele’s latest collection for Valentino is more than just a lineup of exquisitely crafted garments; it is a profound commentary on the relationship between personal identity and the spaces we inhabit. The public washroom far from being merely controversial is a deliberate choice that amplifies the collection’s themes of intimacy and the brand’s sophisticated legacy. With this bold move Michele invites us to rethink what fashion can be and where it can take place reinforcing Valentino’s role in shaping contemporary fashion while honoring its storied heritage.
