Thom Browne showcased an eye-catching collection at New York Fashion Week, featuring designs inspired by birds and detailed embroidery, which marked a vivid departure from his usual aesthetic. Traditionally known for his tailored grey suits, Browne this season introduced a playful twist with models adorned in bright feather eyelashes, enhancing the theme of avian beauty that permeated the show. Above the runway, an impressive installation of 2,000 origami birds added to the immersive nature of the presentation.
Browne’s latest offerings were surprisingly accessible, characterized by their charming use of British-made tweeds and subtle alterations to classic forms. Each piece was intricately embroidered with images of herons and magpies, drawn from the elegant watercolors found in John J. Audubon’s renowned “Birds of America” anthology. After the show, Browne commented on his approach, noting his success in blending conceptual ideas with traditional styles.
The designer’s work is crafted for longevity and integration into everyday wear. His suits, while maintaining a professional look, include playful proportions that hint at the wearer’s readiness to embrace risks. This style signature has been a hallmark of Browne’s designs, attracting figures such as David Bowie. Browne’s choice of runway music, favoring Emily Dickinson’s poetry over contemporary tracks, further underscores his thoughtful approach to fashion.
Thom Browne has been a trendsetter not just on the catwalk but also on the street. One of his most influential contributions to men’s fashion is the cropped trouser look, which reveals a sliver of sock and has become a staple for fashion-forward men everywhere. This trend speaks to Browne’s ability to reshape menswear, much like Giorgio Armani did in the 1980s when he introduced more relaxed, oversized suits.
This season, Browne infused his collection with a sportier feel, perhaps nodding to the Super Bowl with broader blazers and introducing a mix of new colors, including pale pink and pistachio. These additions brought a fresh dynamic to his traditionally more subdued palette.
The significance of Thom Browne in the fashion industry cannot be overstated. In 2018, he expanded his influence by selling an 85% stake in his company to the Zegna group, valuing his brand at $500 million. This move has allowed him to delve into womenswear, attracting a clientele that includes high-profile names like Michelle Obama and Serena Williams. His impact was further highlighted when rapper Doechii wore bespoke Thom Browne to accept a Grammy, showcasing his designs’ cross-generational appeal.
Browne is deeply integrated into the fabric of American fashion. His long-term partner, Andrew Bolton, is the curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and he counts Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour as a close ally and supporter. His involvement in the fashion community is extensive; he currently chairs the Council of Fashion Designers of America, where he plays a pivotal role in shaping the careers of young designers and guiding the direction of New York Fashion Week.
His guidance to emerging designers is to remain indifferent to fleeting trends and focus on their unique vision. Browne believes that the abundance of talent in New York will persist as long as designers stay true to their creative instincts.
Thom Browne’s presentation at New York Fashion Week was more than just a display of clothing; it was a reaffirmation of his role as a visionary who continuously pushes the boundaries of fashion. His ability to fuse the classic with the contemporary, the practical with the conceptual, ensures that his designs not only resonate on the runway but also influence broader fashion trends and practices.
